Restoration Q&A

Safety first. Do not step into standing water if there is a risk of electrical shock. If safe, locate your main water shut-off valve and turn it off immediately to stop the flow. Then, call us. The faster we extract the water, the less damage your walls and floors will sustain.

Unfortunately, no. Water soaks deep into drywall, insulation, and subfloors where air cannot reach. Surface fans might dry the carpet, but the trapped moisture underneath will begin to grow mold within 24-48 hours. We use industrial dehumidifiers and specialized extraction mats to pull moisture from deep within the structure.

Every situation is unique, but most standard water damage projects take between 3 to 5 days to reach a ‘dry standard.’ We monitor moisture levels daily to ensure the job is done right before removing our equipment.

Mold requires moisture to grow. If the water is extracted and the area is dried properly within 24-48 hours, mold growth is unlikely. This is why speed is critical. If you wait, the risk increases exponentially.

Usually, no. Unless the damage is structural or involves hazardous sewage, you can typically stay in your home. Our equipment is noisy (like a loud fan), but we place it strategically to minimize disruption.

You’re absolutely right that mold thrives in warm, damp environments. However, there is a big difference between “stagnant heat” and “controlled drying.”

When we use high-grade dehumidifiers, we aren’t just letting the house sit in the heat; we are actively pulling moisture out of the air. Warmer air holds more moisture than cold air. By raising the temperature, we “evaporate” the water out of your floors and walls faster so the dehumidifier can capture it and pump it out of the house.

Until professional drying equipment is on-site and running, your primary goal is preservation.

• Cooler air slows down the metabolic rate of mold spores, making it harder for them to colonize.

• Running the AC also provides a small amount of supplemental dehumidification. Think of the “cool phase” as hitting the pause button on mold growth until the “drying phase” (the heat) can begin.

We strongly advise against it. Sewage is classified as ‘Category 3’ black water, meaning it contains dangerous pathogens, bacteria, and viruses. Standard household cleaners do not sanitize porous materials like wood or drywall effectively enough to make them safe.

Yes, but only if the source is removed. Masking agents (sprays/candles) only cover the smell. We remove the physical waste and the affected materials, then use air scrubbers with HEPA filters and hydroxyl generators to physically remove the odor-causing particles from the air

Yes. Concrete is porous, but it can be cleaned. We use hot water extraction and hospital-grade antimicrobial agents to sanitize the surface. However, carpet, pad, and drywall touched by sewage must typically be removed and replaced.

Yes. We offer emergency tarping services. We will secure the roof to stop water from entering, and then immediately begin drying the interior of your home to prevent ceiling collapse and rot.

Not usually. By the time rain water enters your basement, it has traveled over the ground (picking up fertilizers and dirt) or through a foundation wall. In the restoration industry, this is often treated as Category 2 (Gray Water) or Category 3 (Black Water) depending on what it mixed with on the way in.

Absolutely. We utilize high-flow, gas-powered pumps and specialty water extraction equipment that do not rely on your home’s electricity. We can get the water out even if the grid is down.

It is often best to call us first to assess the damage. We can tell you if the damage is likely less than your deductible (in which case you wouldn’t file a claim) or if it’s significant. If it is significant, we can help guide you through opening the claim.

No! In fact, most insurance policies require you to take “reasonable steps” to prevent further damage. This means that extracting standing water and removing wet carpet is actually expected.

We document every detail with photos for the adjuster so they can see exactly what the damage looked like before we started. In most cases, we’ve actually completed the remediation before the adjuster even arrives on-site. Because our documentation is so thorough, there is almost never an issue with the claim.

No. It is your home and your choice. You have the legal right to hire the contractor you trust. We work with all major insurance carriers and bill them directly and negotiate with them. 

Every policy is different, but generally, insurance is there for sudden, accidental damage. Filing a claim for a legitimate disaster is exactly what you pay for. We can discuss the scope of damage with you so you can make an informed decision.

We bill your insurance company directly for the restoration work. You are typically responsible only for your deductible. We handle the technical data and photos they need to process the payment.

No, this is a dangerous myth. Bleach often only removes the surface color of mold on porous materials like drywall or wood, leaving the roots intact to grow back stronger. Furthermore, adding water (in bleach) to a moisture problem can feed the mold. We use EPA-registered antimicrobials and physical removal techniques.

Yes. Stachybotrys chartarum (toxic black mold) produces mycotoxins that can cause severe respiratory issues, neurological problems, and allergic reactions. It requires professional containment and removal to ensure spores do not spread to the rest of your home.

We set up ‘containment zones’ using heavy plastic sheeting and negative air pressure machines. This ensures that when we disturb the mold to remove it, the spores are sucked into our HEPA filters rather than floating into your living room.

Not if the moisture source is fixed. Mold needs water to survive. Our process involves identifying the leak, fixing it, drying the structure to industry standards, and then removing the mold. If the area stays dry, the mold cannot return.

It depends on the cause. If the mold is a result of a sudden, covered peril (like a burst pipe) and you acted quickly, it is often covered. If it is due to long-term neglect or humidity, it might not be. We can help you navigate this with your adjuster.